Wednesday, March 28, 2007

Advertisement

Our main mode of advertisement would be via Posters. A model with a nice glowing skin is used to portray the image of fresh-ness and smooth-ness. Our main marketing stratedy would be the model's clean look to attract young women, hence our decision to put our focal point of our poster on the model's face.

Cautionary or warning statements

Cautionary or warning statements are important to let users know of any effects or hazards they might experience with usage of the product. Hence, it should be clearly written on the label.

All 3 products that we reviewed, we the exception of 1, has no cautionary or warning statements.

The exception was the Body Shop Vitamin E Body Lotion, with a small print on the label saying "Warning: Store away from direct sunlight." It gives users a better idea on how to keep their products longer and bacteria free.

Usage Instructions Comparison

Usage instructions usually tells users what is the appropriate way of applying the cosmetics and what dosage is needed for best results. Usually, instructions although are simple steps, it is required for users to be able to fully expliot the product, especially new users and new products. Manufacturers often put recommendations to use with products from the same range to achieve best results.

For NIVEA body: Firming Body Lotion, it states that users have to apply at least once a day on your body and massage gently using circular movements and claims that the lotion is easily absorbed and suitable for all skin-types.

For Clinique Happy Body Cream, no clear instructions were given. It states that "Wear it and be happy."

As for the Body Shop Vitamin E Body Lotion, instruction states that one has to massage daily into the skin after cleansing. For extra protection against dryness, use together with Vitamin E Cream Body Wash.

Welcome

In this project, 3 body lotions are reviewed and compared, with respect to their ingredients/composition, usage instructions, cautionary or warning statements and manufacturing reference etc. After reviewing and comparison, the products will be improved on to form our new and improved product.

The following pages shows our project evaluation.

Development of an improved product


Figure 1.1: Digitally designed model of our product (front)

Figure 1.1: Digitally designed model of our product (back)
  1. Company Name:
    Divinity Skin Care International Ltd
    #23-2306 OCBC Building, Robinson Road, Singapore
  2. Name of product:
    So-Divine Vitamin E Body Moisturizer (All skin type)

  3. Target Group of Consumers:
    So-Divine Vitamin E body moisturizer aims young female users between age of 18-35 who want to nourish and hydrate their skin against dryness and wrinkle. Consumers of this age group are more receptive to a more fruity, passionate and lively aroma (citrus) featured in So-Divine moisturizer.

  4. Description of product:
    So-Divine Vitamin E moisturizer slips a cooling finish of moisture over just-showered skin. It refreshes hydrates and feels sleek, clean and pleasingly light on the body. Moisturizes on contact to give skin a smooth, lustrous look with the crisp, rejuvenating sensation of freshly-peeled citrus fruit aroma. Anti-oxidant vitamin E helps to protect the skin from dryness, keeping a radiant complexion.

  5. Choice of fragrance:
    So-Divine Vitamin E body moisturizer features a fruity citrus aroma. Citrus aroma offers a calming and relaxing effect which wipes away fatigue and revitalizes the body.

  6. Product claim:
    S-Divine Vitamin E moisturizer hydrates and softens dry skin to promote suppleness, freshness and fine complexion. The vitamin E contained helps to protect skin against harmful effect of sunlight and keep skin tissue and refine skin texture. Citrus aroma brings a refreshing and calming sensation to olfaction.



Suggested Improvements & Comments

Consumers now have a wide variety of products off-the-shelf to choose from. For the same class of product, there are usually several brands which may offer similar functions. Therefore, to stay competitive in the skincare product market, it is important to differentiate the brand from others. After reviewing the three products, one thing stays common among the three - innovation.

For our product, we want a product that is light and refreshing to apply on for the whole day which is suitable for active females in the daytime. Therefore in our product, we chose an anti-erogenic and stimulating theme for the odour effect. Because the product has to be lightly scented, we would only include Citral and Limonene to impart the citrus scent and also a very small amount of Patchouli to add a tint of spiciness but so much that the scent becomes too rich and strong. All these are natural fragrance materials which are frequently used in perfumes and other cosmetic products.

As needed in all moisturizers, Glycerin is the humectant chosen for our product because it can also act as a good solvent for many materials. Benzyl acohol can be added to serve as a solvent and a preservative. In addition, capric triglyceride can be added as an emollient and more importantly, it is a dispersing agent thereby improving the consistency of the final product and also a solvent for vitamins. We can add Vitamin E, or otherwise known as Tocopherol, which may helps to protect skin against harmful effect of sunlight and keep skin tissue and refine skin texture. Although vitamins are usually added into the skincare product as a preservative, most products will still market themselves as “with added Vitamins” to lure consumers into believing that there is really a functional effect of vitamins in skincare products on our skin. To preserve the moisturizer, we can use methylparaben because it does not just preserve the product itself, but it can rejuvenate the skin at the same time. Lastly, to improve the spreadabilty of the product, Dimethicone, which is commonly used and it is not absorbed by the skin.

As this is a moisturizer for the daytime, sunscreen can be added to protect the skin from ultraviolet rays coming from the sun. This is important because in a tropical country like Singapore which is situated near the equator line, the amount of harmful UV radiation may be higher and prolong exposure to the sun will cause skin damage. Hence, it is crucial that the moisturizers must contain sunscreen with different Sun Protection Factor (SPF) to cater to different individuals. Both Titanium oxide and zinc oxide are examples of UV scattering agent which can serve as a sunscreen when used in a cosmetic preparation.

Ingredients Comparison

1. Humectants


Humectants are substances that promote retention of moisture to the surface of the skin. They are hygroscopic substances that readily absorb water from the lower epidermis or the moisturizing product when applied to the skin and hold the moisture at the horny layer, thus maintaining the moisture balance of the skin. Humectants are usually derived from vegetable oils, but they can be man-made as well. They have an overall effect of softening and soothing dry skin.

The most common humectant, Glycerin, is found in all the three products. Besides having the ability to retain moisture content on the surface of the skin, Glycerin can dissolve most materials which may not dissolve in water or alcohol. Hence, it is a good solvent too. It generally serves as an emollient, humectant, solvent and lubricant in most personal care products.

Butylene glycol is an organic molecule with two alcohol groups derived from petroleum. Because alcohols are attracted to water, larger organic alcohols like Butylene glycol will hold water to the surface of the skin as it does not evaporate so easily as compared to smaller alcohols. Hence, it can be used as a humectant. Other functions include being a solvent, surfactant and a wetting agent.



2. Emollients


Emollients are substances which prevent the skin from dryness by reducing water loss from the skin. They may be naturally occurring, such as oils and waxes, or they can be man-made. Examples of man-made emollients include silicone oils and isopropyl myristate. Emollients generally serve three functions:
Reduce water loss by providing a layer of oil on the surface of the skin and hence increase the moisture content of the horny layer
Almost like humectants, emollients can increase the water-holding capacity of the horny layer
Lubricate the skin by adding glide across the skin

Caprylic/capric triglyceride, which is also known as Fractionated Coconut Oil, is a mixed triester of caprylic and capric acid. It can quickly penetrate the skin and has no color, odour or taste. It can act as a barrier agent to bind the water molecules in the skin. Besides being a great emollient, it can also be used as a dispersing agent and a solvent for vitamins and actives and it can improve the spreading of skincare formulas when added.

Cetearyl alcohol, on the other hand, is a mixture of fatty alcohols which are mainly cetyl and stearyl alcohols. It is widely used as an emollient, as well as an emulsion stabilizer, surfactant and aqueous or non-aqueous thickener. Cetearyl alcohol can be used in anhydrous formulations, oil-in-water emulsions and water-in-oil emulsions.

Cyclomethicone and Dimethicone are both synthetic silicon oils used as emollients. Cyclomethicone is commonly used in hair and skincare product to impart shine and silkiness while Dimethicone is the most widely used silicon-based organic polymer and can be added to a product to improve the spreadability of the product. These silicon compounds are not absorbed by the skin.

There are not much information is available for the ingredient, Diethylhexyl succinate. However, it can be used as an emollient or glossing agent in cosmetic preparations.

Glyceryl Stearate SE is a natural plant-derived compound which consists of glycerin and stearic acid, an essential fatty acid. It is a popular emollient, as well as an emulsifier, which is commonly used in cosmetic preparations such as in lotions and creams.

Octyldodecanol can be both used as an emollient or opacifying agent (having light scattering ability). It has lubricating properties and may be used as a thickener in moisturizers.

Octyl palmitate is an ester and a common ingredient found in lipsticks, lip and skin moisturizers and other beauty care products. Besides reducing the loss of moisture from the skin, it can also provide protection to the skin from harmful irritants and soften the epidermis.





3. Surfactants



Surfactants, otherwise known as “surface active agents”, are usually organic compounds which are amphiphilic. This means that a molecule of surfactant will contain both the water-loving or hydrophilic heads and the hydrophobic tail. Because of this special characteristic of surfactants, they can be used as wetting agents which reduce the surface tension of liquids by adsorbing at the gas-liquid interface or lower the interfacial tension between two liquids by adsorbing at the liquid-liquid interface. They are classified into 4 different types according to the presence of formally charged groups in their heads; non-ionic, anionic, cationic and zwitterionic.

All of the three ingredients, Ceteareth-20, Peg-40 stearate and Sorbitan laurate, has good wetting and water-soluble properties. They are mainly used in cosmetic preparations as surfactants or emulsifying agents.



4. Fragrances


Fragrances generally refer to any odour that has appealing olfactory properties. They can be natural substances or made up of synthetic materials. Each of the fragrance material has their own unique characteristics due to difference in their chemical make-up. When used in cosmetic preparations, fragrances can improve the odour of the final products. Sometimes, the resultant odour of the mixture of the ingredients may be undesirable. Hence, fragrances are usually added to mask the undesirable odours.

In the three products, only Clinique Happy Body Cream contains several different fragrance materials to build a distinct odour identity. The other two products have added fragrances to cover up any undesirable odour of the mixture.

The main fragrance materials used in all three products are parfum and phenoxyethanol. Parfum is the last ingredient found on the ingredient lists of the products except for Clinique Happy Body Cream. Since parfum is the most concentrated (having approximately 15-30% fragrance concentration) in terms of strength of perfume, usually only a small amount is needed in cosmetic preparations. Hence, Clinique Happy Body Cream actually has a higher concentration of parfum in its formula than the rest. The other ingredient, Phenoxyethanol, is an aromatic glycol ether which comes from a class of organic chemical compounds. It can serve as a preservative for skincare preparations and a fixative for perfumes.

Another common ingredient used as fragrances is Benzyl alcohol. It is a natural constituent of a variety of essentials oils which include jasmine, hyacinth and ylang-ylang. Benzyl alcohol can act as a useful solvent as well.

Among other fragrance materials used only in Clinique Happy Body Cream, they can be classified as natural or synthetic fragrances. Natural ingredients include:
- Geraniol, which has a rose-like odour, imparting a floral scent to the final product.
- Linalool, which is a terpene alcohol chemical found in many flowers and spice plants. It adds a floral scent with a touch of spiciness to the final product.
- Citral is the major constituent of oil obtained from lemongrass, and is also present in the oils of verbena, lemon and orange. Therefore, Citral imparts a fresh citrus effect to the overall aroma of the product.
- Hydroxycitronellal is derived from Citronellal which is a monoterpenoid, the chemical compound that gives a distinct lemon scent.
- Limonene which has an extremely strong smell of orange.
- Hexyl cinnamal is a clear yellow liquid and has the fragrance characteristics of jasmine.
- Citronellol is naturally found in the oils of rose and geranium and hence imparts a floral characteristic to the final product.

There are several synthetic fragrances used in the body cream as well. Synthetic materials are blended in to complement the natural fragrance ingredients. They are usually cheaper and more available and that is why they are often used in skincare products. The synthetic ingredients used are butylphenyl methylpropional, hydroxyisohexyl 3-cyclohexene carboxaldehyde and alpha-isomethyl ionone.




5. Preservatives & Antimicrobial


Preservatives are essential in cosmetics to prevent spoilage and microbial contamination. The main function is to stop the development of bacteria, fungi, viruses and parasites that can cause diseases. When added, proliferation of microorganisms are suppressed and killed, hence keeping the product bacteria free. Most manufacturers use synthetic chemical preservatives for economic reason; mass production and longer storage time. The most common of them being Parabens.

All three products of ours contains preservatives, but of different forms; the most common preservative being Phenoxyethanol, which is present in all three of our body lotion. Phenoxyethanol is a colorless oily liquid functioning as a bactericide and being an aromatic ether alcohol, it also serves as a fragrance ingredient.

The next two common preservative ingredients are Methylparaben and Propylparaben. The former is a water soluble anti-microbial and anti-irritant agent, used in a variety of cosmetics and personal care products to preserve as well as to rejuvenate the skin. Propylparaben although not as water-soluble as Methylparaben, is a cosmetic food grade preservative both anti-microbial and anti-fungal.

Benzyl Alcohol was also present in two of our products. It is a colorless liquid with a mild pleasant aromatic odor, constituting a variety of essential oils including jasmine, hyacinth and ylang-ylang. Although mainly used as a solvent, it exhibits bateriostatic properties, inhibiting the growth and reproduction of bacteria.

Alcohol Denat. was only present in one of our product, Nivea Firming Body Lotion. It acts as a solvent, disinfectant, and freshening agent in skin care products. However, being an alcohol, it is very drying, stripping one’s skin of moisture and natural immune barrier, making one more vulnerable to bacteria, fungi and viruses.



6. Solvent
Solvent is an important ingredient in all cosmetics, aiding in the solubilisation of product ingredients. The most common and widely used solvent is Aqua, present in almost all cosmetics. No doubt, it was the first listed ingredient for all our three products. It serves to dilute and dissolve other ingredients present in the product.

Glycerin is also a widely used solvent and was also present in all three body creams. It is a neutral, colorless, thick liquid which can be dissolved into water or alcohol. Many things dissolve into glycerin easier than they do into water or alcohol, thus making it an ideal solvent, easy to work with. Having a high “hygroscopic” nature, it absorbs water from the air and when diluted with water, it will help soften skins.

The next most common solvent, present in two of our products is Benzyl Alcohol. As mentioned earlier, it acts as a preservative, as well as a solvent.

Other solvents include Alcohol Denat in the Nivea Body Firming lotion and Ceteareth-20, present only in the Bodyshop Vitamin E Lotion. Alcohol Denat also acts as a disinfectant and freshening agent and this solvent, being an alcohol strips one’s skin of moisture. Ceteareth-20 is used as a solubilizing agent as well as a surfactant cleaning agent. Its water-soluble properties make it easy to work with and it is widely used as an emulsifying agent.




7. Emulsion Stabilizers


Emulsion stabilizers are substances added to help the process of emulsification and to improve formulation stability and shelf-life. The most common of them being Carbomer, which is present in all three of our body lotions. Carbomers are synthetic polymer commonly used as thickening and suspending agents and emulsion stabilizers in cosmetics. It reacts with fat particles to form thick, stable emulsions of water and oil.

Cetearyl Alcohol, consisting predominantly of cetyl and stearyl alcohols acts as an emulsion stabilizer, as well as a viscosity-increasing agent. It leaves skin emollient and is used in water-in-oil emulsions.

Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride (CCT) possess excellent oxidation stability with an almost indefinite shelf life. It is a colorless, odorless substance and ideal as a dispersing agent. CCT is also great as a superfatting oil, improving the spreadability of skincare formulas.

Triethanolamine neutralizes carbomer solutions to form gels. It is used as a pH adjuster as well as an emulsifying surfactant.



8. Others


There are special ingredients found in Nivea Firming Body Lotion, which exhibits various properties like firming and anti-ageing.

Biotin assists in various metabolic chemical conversions to synthesize fatty acids as well as skin conditioning.

Ubuquinone is known for its ability to slow the detrimental biochemical, structural and other changes that occur with ageing. It is also said to reverse some age-related bioenergetic degradation that acutely affects the systems with the highest energy demand (cardiovascular and immune).